A Coruña is a centuries-old city that hides fascinating secrets and stories. Its cobbled streets and sea cliffs have witnessed all kinds of tales, from the mythological origins of the Tower of Hercules to the mermaid of Orzán. It is also a land of spirits, and there is one in particular that has moved the people of A Coruña for centuries. This is the legend of Lady Hester, a ghostly tourist who visits the grave of her beloved, General John Moore, every January 16.
A brief history
Lady Hester Lucy Stanhope was born in 1776 into an aristocratic English family. Her uncle was prime minister, and her social life placed her at the center of British politics from a young age. However, her restless spirit led her to break the mold. Far from behaving like a woman of her time, Hester was a traveler, independent, and defied the social conventions that were unsuccessfully imposed on her, with great willpower.
Sir John Moore was born in 1761 and was a prominent general in the Kingdom of Great Britain. He took part in multiple wars, such as the American War of Independence, the Napoleonic Wars, and several campaigns in Egypt. As a general, he enjoyed a good reputation because he treated his men as people rather than numbers in an army.
Fate would have it that the stories of these two figures would be forever linked in A Coruña. In January 1809, in the midst of the Spanish War of Independence, Moore led the British army’s retreat in the face of advancing French troops. His goal was to save his men and embark them at the port of A Coruña. However, the general was mortally wounded on January 16 during the legendary Battle of Elviña. He was buried with honors in what is now the Garden of San Carlos.
The beginning of the legend
From that moment on, military history gave way to myth. Although, according to historians, there is no conclusive evidence that they had a formal romantic relationship, legend insisted on endowing their bond with a deep and secret feeling. What is known is that she kept one of the general’s gloves throughout her life and took it with her to her deathbed, so their bond was strong.
According to the most widely told version, every January 16, a figure dressed in white appears in the Garden of San Carlos, goes to Moore’s grave, and leaves a flower before disappearing into the mist. Thus, Lady Hester pays tribute to her supposed lover even after death.
Moore’s tomb today is a place steeped in solemnity and beauty, a corner where the memory of the general is kept alive with views of the port and the ocean. A corner you shouldn’t miss if it’s your first time visiting the capital of A Coruña.
Plan your rest
If you want to discover all the legendary places that await you in A Coruña, don’t hesitate to prepare your stay in a hotel that is perfect for your rest after a long day of exploration.
You can book your room at Carrís Marineda, an ideal location with good connections to the main access routes to the city, the airport, and the center. Click here and choose the one that best suits your style.
